Washing machine not spinning: what to check before you call

First, rule out an unbalanced load

Modern machines will refuse to spin fast if the drum is loaded unevenly. A single heavy item like a bath towel or a duvet is the classic trigger. Open the door, redistribute the washing, and start a spin-only or rinse-and-spin cycle.

If it spins normally now, nothing is broken. If it happens repeatedly with normal loads, read on.

Check the drainage

A machine will not spin until it has drained. If there is water left in the drum, the problem is drainage, not the spin system.

1. Turn the machine off at the wall before touching anything.
2. Find the pump filter (small hatch at the front-bottom on most front-loaders). Put a shallow tray and towels down, because water will come out.
3. Unscrew the filter, clear out lint, coins, hair grips and other debris, and check the impeller behind it turns freely.
4. Check the drain hose at the back is not kinked, and that the point where it enters the standpipe or under-sink trap is not blocked.

• If the filter was blocked and it now drains and spins, you have fixed it.
• If it drains but still will not spin, the fault is electrical or mechanical, and a technician visit is the sensible next step.

Faults that need a technician

• Door interlock: if the machine thinks the door is open it will not spin. There is usually no DIY fix. The lock assembly is replaced.
• Drive belt: on belt-driven machines a stretched or snapped belt lets the drum turn by hand very freely and slip on spin. It is a common, usually economical repair.
• Motor brushes: worn carbon brushes on older motors cause weak or no spin. Replaceable on many models.
• Control board: less common, but a failed board can stop the spin phase. Diagnosed by elimination.

If you have checked the load and the drainage and it still will not spin, that is the point to book a diagnosis rather than keep experimenting. Running repeated failed cycles only adds wear.