How we handle dryer repair

Drying problems normally come from restricted airflow (blocked lint filters, condenser or heat-exchanger), a failed heater or thermostat, a worn belt, or drainage on condenser models. The technician checks airflow end to end, tests the heater and thermostats, and inspects the belt, drum rollers and motor.

On heat-pump dryers a gradual loss of drying performance is very often the heat-exchanger being clogged with fine lint that the filters do not catch. Cleaning it properly can restore performance without any parts.

If the dryer is tripping the electricity, we find whether it is the heater element, the motor or moisture in the wiring before anything is switched back on.

Common symptoms and what usually causes them

A guide to what we look for. The actual cause is confirmed by an on-site diagnosis before any quote.

Runs but no heat

Failed heating element, tripped or failed thermal cut-out, thermostat fault, or (heat-pump models) a compressor or sensor fault.

Takes far too long to dry

Blocked lint filters, clogged condenser or heat-exchanger, restricted vent hose, or an overloaded drum.

Drum not turning

Snapped or stretched drive belt, worn drum rollers, seized idler pulley, or a motor fault.

Trips the electricity

Shorted heating element, moisture in the element or wiring, or a failing motor.

Very noisy: squealing or rumbling

Worn drum rollers or bearings, a failing idler pulley, or an object caught in the drum seam.

Water not collecting / condenser model leaking

Blocked condenser, failed condenser pump, full or cracked water tank, or a blocked drain channel.

Stops shortly after starting

Overheating because of blocked airflow, or a faulty moisture sensor ending the cycle early.

Good to know before the visit

  • Clean both lint filters before the visit. If the machine dries better afterwards, that was the whole problem and you have saved a call-out.
  • On condenser and heat-pump dryers, ask us to show you where the heat-exchanger is and how to rinse it. Doing this every few months prevents most "not drying" faults.
  • A dryer that trips the power should not be run again until it has been checked. Keep it switched off at the wall.
  • Vented dryers need the outlet hose clear and as short and straight as possible; a long or crushed hose is a frequent hidden cause of poor drying.

Questions we are asked about dryer repair

My dryer runs but clothes come out damp. What is wrong?

Nine times out of ten it is airflow: blocked filters, or on condenser and heat-pump models a clogged heat-exchanger. Clean those first. If it still under-performs, the heater or a thermostat is the next thing to check. Our "dryer not heating" guide covers it.

The dryer keeps tripping the fuse box. Is it dangerous?

Stop using it and switch it off at the wall. A trip usually means a shorted heating element or moisture in the wiring. It is repairable, but it should be checked before you run it again.

Do you repair heat-pump dryers?

Yes. Heat-pump models have their own common faults: clogged heat-exchangers, condenser-pump failures and sensor issues. We diagnose and repair all of them.

Why is my dryer suddenly so loud?

Worn drum rollers or a failing pulley are the usual causes. It is a mechanical wear repair, not a reason to replace the machine, unless the drum bearing itself has gone on an older unit.

Appliance playing up? Let's get it sorted.

Call or WhatsApp and tell us the appliance and the symptom. We book a visit at a time that suits you.

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